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Old is the New Black

Eco-conscious design is now more important than ever. Influenced by social media, consumers are buying for trend, and with the rise of fast fashion comes the rise of waste. Some high-end luxury brands have used the parameter of sustainability to influence the way they craft and conceptualise their apparel. Although each individual process differs, there are some brands that have taken environmental stewardship and innovation to new heights, creating exceptional, covetable, and timeless garments that have started to redefine the luxury landscape.

Three experimenters championing this movement are Atelier Jolie, Chloé, and Marine Serre, who are pioneering the process of transforming waste materials into new, high-quality products, in their own unique ways.

A custom gown, designed for artist and writer Suleika Jaouad by Angelina Jolie is 100% silk and made entirely of traceable and vintage materials / Instagram

Angelina Jolie’s Atelier Jolie is a beacon of sustainable luxury. Launched with a mission to democratise the fashion industry, the New York atelier focuses on self-expression, upcycling, and ethical practices from ground zero. Atelier Jolie collaborates with artisans around the world, using leftover fabrics and vintage materials to craft unique, one-of-a-kind pieces. Each garment tells a story, reflecting the rich cultural heritage and craftsmanship of the makers. Atelier Jolie invites consumers as collaborators, providing them with the agency to design new, or re-design old garments hand in hand with the tailor, single handedly destroying trend-driven fast fashion culture. The atelier also offers repair services and free take-home mending kits, prioritising the upcycling and repair of garments. Atelier Jolie fosters a sense of community and empowerment among its collaborators, from consumers to tailors and pattern makers. The result is a collection that is as sustainable as it is stunning, embodying Jolie’s vision of a more inclusive and environmentally responsible fashion world.

Atelier Jolie can have an incredible positive impact on artisans who have often been unrecognised and undervalued—but we also have an opportunity to start conversations about workforce exploitation, pollution, and waste.” – Helen Aboah, Chief Operating Officer, Atelier Jolie

Chloé has set a new standard in the industry by becoming the first luxury fashion house to achieve B Corp certification. This prestigious designation recognises companies that meet high standards of social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability. Chloé’s commitment to upcycling is a key component of its sustainability strategy. The brand has launched several initiatives to repurpose excess fabrics and materials into new designs, minimising waste and reducing its environmental footprint. By integrating upcycling into its core business model, Chloé is not only enhancing the aesthetic appeal of its collections but also paving the way for a more sustainable future for all high-end luxury brands.

French designer Marine Serre’s eponymous label has become synonymous with pushing the boundaries of what is possible in fashion innovation. Known for her futuristic aesthetic and pioneering use of materials, Serre transforms discarded textiles and plastic bottles into high-fashion masterpieces. Her collections often feature patchwork designs made from recycled scarves, bed linens, and even carpets, creating a distinct look that is both eclectic and timeless. Serre’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond her materials to her production processes, ensuring that every step of her supply chain adheres to eco-friendly practices. Her approach to upcycling is not just about creating beautiful garments but also about challenging the fashion industry to rethink its relationship with waste and consumption.

The rise of mindful conceptualisation and acquisition within the fashion market signifies a profound shift towards sustainability and responsible consumption. Brands like Atelier Jolie, Chloé, and Marine Serre demonstrate that fashion can be groundbreakingly thoughtful, resulting in special and significant pieces that can last a lifetime, inspiring a new generation of consumers and designers to embrace sustainability, upcycling, and pre-owned luxury.

By Indigo Keane, Luxury Specialist

Top Image: Marine Serre SS20 runway, during Paris fashion week, 2019 / Alamy

July 2024