Maria Callas was not only one of the greatest voices in operatic history, but also a style icon. Born in New York in 1923 to Greek immigrant parents, she spent her early years in Athens, where she fine-tuned her musical talents. Her professional career begun in 1941 with a small role in Ponchielli’s La Gioconda, but it was her performance in Bellini’s Norma at Milan’s Teatro della Scala in 1947 that established her as a leading dramatic soprano. With her powerful voice and deep emotional expression, she redefined roles in the operas of Verdi, Puccini and Donizetti. Beyond her musical talents, Callas captivated audiences with her unique personal style, in which jewellery played a significant role.
Callas’ jewellery collection was not just an accessory to her glamorous persona—it was deeply intertwined with her career and personal life. Her first husband, Giovanni Battista Meneghini, gifted her exceptional pieces to mark milestones in her career. In his memoir Callas, Mia Moglie, Meneghini revealed that he commemorated each of her major premieres with jewellery named after the operas she performed. For Lucia di Lammermoor, he gifted her a diamond set comprising a necklace, bracelet and ring. For La Traviata, she received an exquisite set of emeralds, while Medea inspired a striking set of rubies and diamonds that echoed the opera’s intense drama. These pieces were more than just luxurious gifts; they were symbols of her success and artistic achievements.
One of the most treasured pieces in Callas’ collection was a diamond brooch with a scroll design and a rigid tassel, given to her by Meneghini to celebrate her Italian stage debut at the Arena di Verona. This brooch symbolised her transformation into La Divina, the opera world’s ultimate icon.
As her career flourished, Callas expanded her collection with pieces from renowned jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston. A particularly famous piece in her collection was the 11.71-carat marquise diamond ear clips, likely from Harry Winston. In 1971 she also acquired an iconic Cartier panther brooch crafted in gold with emerald eyes sitting atop a carved white chalcedony, which became one of her signature pieces.
In 1959, after parting ways with Meneghini, Callas began a passionate relationship with shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis. Onassis showered her with extravagant jewellery, particularly from Van Cleef & Arpels. She famously told author Peter Evans in an interview “Ari’s total understanding of women comes out of a Van Cleef & Arpels catalogue”. Among his most notable gifts was the Cinq Feuilles brooch, a dazzling arrangement of five ruby-centred leaves encased in diamonds that she enjoyed wearing on her evening gowns.
Even after Onassis left her to marry Jackie Kennedy, Callas remained loyal to Van Cleef & Arpels, purchasing several exquisite pieces for herself. She frequently wore a Van Cleef & Arpels three-stranded pearl sautoir featuring a regal lion motif and a lavish tassel, a piece some interpreted as a representation of her fiery personality.
Callas’ jewellery collection continues to captivate enthusiasts and collectors. In 2004, an auction of her pieces fetched record-breaking prices, demonstrating the ongoing fascination with her legacy. More recently, Angelina Jolie, who portrays Callas in Pablo Larraín’s biopic, paid homage to the diva by wearing her Cartier panther brooch on the red carpet at the Venice Film Festival. The same brooch is featured in the film, emphasising Callas’ enduring influence on fashion and style.
Maria Callas’ jewels were more than just beautiful ornaments; they were symbols of her triumphs, her passionate relationships and her transformation into a legend. Just as her voice lives on in the recordings that continue to mesmerise opera lovers, her jewellery remains a testament to her status as one of the most enigmatic and captivating icons of the 20th century.
By Lauren Boustridge, Senior Jewellery Specialist
Top Image: Maria Callas, opera singer applying bracelet, Milano, October 1957 / Alamy
March 2025