Aquamarines are a gemstone as blue as the ocean’s depths. Their name derives from the Latin words ‘aqua’ (water) and ‘mare’ (sea). Their hues span from the dark, mysterious greens of the sea to the light, sparkling blues of the shallows.
Ancient mariners believed this spectacular gem possessed the power to calm storms and ward off evil spirits. Cherished for centuries as a symbol of hope, love, and protection, aquamarines have been likened to a sailor’s talisman, believed to calm the tempestuous waters of life, bringing peace and protection. More than just a gem, aquamarines are a symbol of the enduring power of the human spirit. They have also been linked to marital happiness and personal strength. Aquamarines are said to bring courage, kindness, and wisdom to their wearer.
Aquamarines are primarily sourced from Brazil, Nigeria, Pakistan, India, and Madagascar. They are also found in Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique, Zambia, and the United States. In the early 20th century, aquamarines became increasingly popular in Art Deco jewellery. The geometric designs and bold colours of this era perfectly complemented the gemstone’s modern and sophisticated appeal.
One of the most famous aquamarine jewels in history is the Aquamarine Star of the East. This massive gemstone, weighing over 1,392 carats, was discovered in Brazil in 1910. It was cut into a rectangular shape with a pointed top and was eventually set in a platinum necklace. The Aquamarine Star of the East was once owned by the Maharaja of Patiala, India, and is now part of the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of Natural History.
Another celebrated attraction at the Smithsonian Institution is the 10,363ct (about 4.6 pounds) Dom Pedro Aquamarine – believed to be the largest faceted aquamarine in the world. Discovered in the Minas Gerais region of Brazil, a hotspot for fine gemstones, the rough stone from which it was cut weighed around 100 pounds and was masterfully cut by German gem artist Bernd Munsteiner in 1992. What makes the Dom Pedro even more remarkable is its unique shape. The gem is an elongated obelisk, cut using Munsteiner’s innovative ‘negative faceting’ technique, which allows light to pass through internal cuts in such a way that the stone appears to glow from within. This cutting style gives the gem an ethereal quality, reminiscent of cascading waterfalls.
Currently housed at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C., it is named after the two emperors of Brazil, Dom Pedro I and Dom Pedro II. This aquamarine not only represents the rich gemstone heritage of Brazil but also stands as a symbol of both the natural beauty of aquamarines and the artistry of modern gem cutting.
Aquamarine’s beauty and symbolism have drawn many notable figures to its allure. Queen Elizabeth Il was known for her extensive collection of aquamarine jewellery, including a stunning parure gifted to her by the Brazilian government. The actress Elizabeth Taylor was frequently spotted wearing bold aquamarine designs by Bulgari and Van Cleef and Arpels. Other notable celebrities who have been associated with aquamarines include Jennifer Lopez, Angelina Jolie, Kate Middleton and the late Diana, Princess of Wales.
Aquamarines have also featured prominently in Royal tiaras. These include, Princess Olga Paley’s 1912 Cartier aquamarine and diamond tiara, Queen Victoria Eugenie of Spain’s aquamarine and diamond loop Tiara, Princess Margareta of Sweden’s aquamarine and diamond Kokoshnik and Princess Alexandra of Hanover and Cumberland’s Fabergé tiara (1904), that sold in a Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva in 2019 for 1,035,000 CHF (Swiss Francs).
From ancient talismans to modern-day fashion statements, aquamarines are an enduring gem that continue to captivate hearts and minds. Their serene colour and association with love and protection make them also a meaningful gift for a loved one. Whether worn as a necklace, bracelet or a ring, aquamarine jewellery can be a beautiful and timeless expression of love and affection.
By Hamish Sharma, Head of Important Jewels
Top Image: Property from a Private Melbourne Collector, a Tiffany & Co. Aquamarine and diamond pendant necklace, circa 2017. $50,000-70,000
November 2024