Look once, and you will find it hard to look away! I say that with a fair degree of confidence because the magnetism of a Keshi pearl’s luminosity and iridescence is unparalleled in the world of pearls. “Gifts of the mermaids” is how they have been referred to and little wonder as these mysterious treasures have, over time, both captivated and confounded jewellers and gem merchants.
When we think of jewellery it is for the most part fashioned out of precious metals and jewels that are found buried in the earth. The other category of gem material falls under the organic classification and includes coral, amber, shell, jet, all these materials derived from living or once-living organisms. Pearls are one such gem as they are found inside a living creature, an oyster, and are a result of a wonderous biological process — the oyster’s way of protecting itself from foreign substances. This “beautiful accident” occurs randomly during the pearl saltwater or fresh water culturing process and distinguishes them from purely natural pearls.
The development of a pearl relies on a foreign intrusion, be that a parasite, a grain of sand, bead or a fragment of shell embedding itself in a mollusk. This process can occur naturally or through the intervention of pearl harvesters. A type of infection ensues, and the oyster heals itself by developing a layer of nacre over the intruding substance, walling it from further irritation. As long as the oyster remains alive, layers of nacre continue to build around the irritant. It is indeed bewildering to think that the end product of a pesky aggravation would result in something as enchanting as a pearl.
During the pearl culturing process another type of non-beaded pearl can also be created by chance, this happy accident occurs when the oyster rejects the implanted nucleus but retains the mantle tissue that was originally inserted for the creation of the pearl sac. Or if there has been an unintentional intrusion of a tiny natural organism or if small particles of mantle tissue have detached themselves from the implanted nucleus. Regardless, the oyster will continue to secrete nacre to protect itself, producing a beautiful by-product in the form of a Keshi pearl. As there is no identifiable and intentional foreign body nucleus Keshi pearls are considered to be entirely composed of nacre, making them somewhat similar to natural pearls, although their creation distinguishes them from that process in that they are a by-product of the cultured pearl process.
Their unique formation makes Keshi pearls a true connoisseurs’ gem, prized by Eastern and Western cultures whose members of royalty and aristocracy don these natural beauties with pride and dignity, precious symbols reflecting regal status and position. Possessing a whimsical charm, these organic pearl gems continue to be prized for their shimmering iridescence, irregular shapes and intricate textures that effortlessly evoke the natural world’s beauty in all its shapes and sizes – their undeniable perfection found in their imperfection.
Patricia Kontos F.G.A.A.
Senior Specialist Timepieces & Jewels
Top Image: Offered in our forthcoming sale of Fine Jewels 21 October 2024, an attractive 18ct white gold, diamond, and Keshi pearl necklace.
This rare strand composed of twenty-three pearls measuring between approximately 15.74mm to 22.06mm, compared to the average Keshi length of 2-8mm.
July 2024