Tiaras have captivated society for millennia, serving as powerful emblems of status, divinity, and refinement.
Their origins can be traced to the ancient civilizations of Greece, Egypt, and Rome, where rulers and deities adorned their heads with simple diadems or wreaths as symbols of power. The Greeks honoured their gods, heroes, and victorious athletes with laurel wreaths which were later crafted into gold, whilst Roman rulers and high-ranking officials donned these sacred symbols at weddings and banquets.
During the Middle Ages and Renaissance, tiaras became a prominent feature in European courts, evolving into increasingly elaborate designs. By the 18th and 19th centuries, they had become essential accessories for aristocratic women, worn at grand events and royal gatherings. The rise of esteemed jewellers like Chaumet, Cartier, and Fabergé in the 19th and early 20th centuries elevated the tiara to an art form, incorporating exquisite diamonds, pearls, and gemstones into intricate, nature-inspired motifs—laurel leaves, shells, waves, wheat sheafs, roses, and lilies.
Many 19th-century tiaras were designed for versatility, allowing them to be worn in multiple ways. While they served as elegant headpieces for grand occasions, many could be converted into necklaces for less formal events like operas or black-tie gatherings. Some were even crafted with detachable elements that transformed into brooches, hairpins, earrings, or bracelets, offering a more understated way to wear these exquisite jewels in everyday settings. Lot 62, a Belle Époque diamond tiara to be offered in the Important Jewels auction in Sydney on April 8th features a detachable pendant necklace and earrings
Following World War II, tiaras re-emerged as the hallmark of royalty, Hollywood starlets, and high society, making notable appearances at royal weddings, such as most recently at the ceremonies of the Duchess of Cambridge, the Duchess of Sussex, and Princess Eugenie. An enduring tradition of handmade craftsmanship connects the crowns of foliage used to worship ancient gods to the glittering headpieces worn by modern monarchs. Queen Victoria received a series of tiaras designed by Prince Albert, many of which passed into the custody of Queen Elizabeth II, who owns the largest collection of tiaras in the world.
Today, tiaras remain among the most coveted collector’s items, valued for their rarity, craftsmanship, and storied histories. They serve as tangible links to generations of European aristocracy, reflecting both past opulence and future legacy. Whether worn at weddings, state banquets, or high-profile galas, tiaras continue to symbolize elegance and grandeur.
With their timeless elegance and rich symbolism, tiaras continue to transcend trends, embodying both history and enduring sophistication.
Tiara Terminology
The term “tiara” broadly encompasses various styles of ornamental headpieces, including:
Diadem
Originally used in ancient Greece to describe a bound head ornament, the term later referred to a decorative band worn by monarchs.
Circlet
A tiara that encircles the head completely or nearly so.
Bandeau
A sleek, low-profile headpiece, often worn across the forehead, particularly fashionable in the early 20th century.
Kokoshnik
Inspired by traditional Russian headdresses, this style features a wide, elevated design, often resembling a fringe of diamonds or a solid chevron-shaped panel. Jewellers like Fabergé popularized kokoshnik tiaras in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Aigrette
A decorative piece worn above the forehead, designed to hold a plume of feathers or resemble a feather motif, drawing its name from the egret bird.
Coronet
A small crown, typically worn by lesser nobility and peers. The number of decorative elements, such as pearls or balls, denotes the wearer’s rank.
By Hamish Sharma, Head of Important Jewels
Top Image: Highllights from the Important Jewels Auction, 8 April 2025, Sydney
March 2025