I have always found the Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Lion Ébouriffé’ brooches whimsical, charming and extremely charismatic. Their history is as interesting as the brooches themselves. In 1954 Van Cleef & Arpels introduced a new range of animal clips at its Parisian boutique on Place Vendôme. Post World War II saw a period of jubilation and new fashion trends set off by Christian Doir’s ‘New Look’ in 1947. This paved the way for a new era in fashion and style.
The caricature animal brooches created by Van Cleef & Arpels at this time were not sophisticated pieces of jewellery, however they did add some humour and whimsy to the range. The collection was initially made to entice and capture the wealthy younger clientele of the era. It’s interesting to note that the brooches became sought after amongst their more established clients, notably Grace Kelly, Jackie Kennedy and the Duchess of Windsor. This cemented the popularity of the menagerie range.
The ruffled wind-swept lion brooch is among the house’s most recognisable animals and was so popular that Van Cleef & Arpels has made this design on and off since the early 1960s. They remain popular today and are desired by collectors worldwide. The lions were most often sold individually, so finding a pair adds to their value and rarity.
Leonard Joel has the privilege to offer a rare pair of ‘Lion Ébouriffé’ brooches in the 21 October Fine Jewels & Timepieces auction. On other platforms such as 1stDibs, extraordinary prices are demanded for these cute little fellows.
The menagerie range was reinvented for the millennium in 2017 when Van Cleef & Arpels launched the Lucky Animals collection. Amongst his new companions the endearing ‘Lion Ébouriffé’ makes an appearance, re-imagined in 18ct gold, onyx and tiger’s eye. The new version on a traditional theme reminds us that jewellery can be precious and humorous too.
John D’Agata, Head of Fine Jewellery & Timepieces
Top Image: Van Cleef and Arpels, pair of 18ct gold, diamond gem-set ‘Lion Ebouriffe’ brooches. $8,000-12,000
October 2024